by Melissa Chase < Prev < Play Stop Play > Next > (Click on the photo for the next one in the set) (right-click for the previous image) Melissa is a Boston Marathoner, an ultra runner, an adventure runner and sometimes a trekker to exotic places. Photos:  Melissa is a Boston Marathoner, an ultra runner, an adventure runner and sometimes a trekker to exotic places. Melissa is a Boston Marathoner, an ultra runner, an adventure runner and sometimes a trekker to exotic places.

Way, Way Beyond Central Park: Trekking in Nepal

Nepal on Foot: Walking to A.B.C.

P

erhaps it’s heresy to admit in a Flyers newsletter, but sometimes a runner just wants to take a break from running. That’s me, now. I bonked at Boston, and I am too lazy to even go up to VanCortlandt Park for a friendly 5K. These are signs.

< Prev < Play Stop Play > Next > (Click on the photo for the next one in the set) (right-click for the previous image) Yours Truly at the Nepal map Photos:  Yours Truly at the Nepal map Photos:  Narrow stone path Photos:  Nepalese woman Photos:  Water buffalo Photos:  Pack mules Photos:  The sign: "WAY TO A.B.C. —>" Photos:  "WAY TO A.B.C. —>"

Now, signs can tell you things in interesting ways. In Nepal, for instance, the small villages have large maps painted on the side of a building depicting the trails ahead and telling you how many hours it takes one to walk there. Foot-traffic (or water-buffalo or perhaps mule-traffic) is the only kind of traffic you’ll find on these narrow stone paths. This is where I found myself this June, and one of the signs, just above a stack of Coca Cola crates and a pair of clucking chickens, said “WAY TO A.B.C. — >”, but what did that mean? Silly me, it meant “This way to Annapurna Base Camp” and that’s where I was headed.

How and why was I on this journey? Well, it started last spring when my friend Ali tapped me to “do something” during her June break from medical school. Both of us being hikers (we met on an Appalachian Mountain Club hike), we preferred to have an “active” vacation. We whittled our choices down to hiking in Corsica (alas, too much logistical work for our tastes), or signing-up for a pre-arranged trek in Nepal with GAP Adventures (the Great Adventure People). The dates fit (June 13 - 27), and off we went.

We landed in a steamy, hot Kathmandu on Sunday, June 13th, where we met our fellow group members — two Canadians, two Brits, and four Ozzies — all but one in their rambunctious 20s, combining this trip with longer personal itineraries throughout Asia.

Sights Around Kathmandu

< Prev < Play Stop Play > Next > (Click on the photo for the next one in the set) (right-click for the previous image) A temple with flags Photos:  A temple with flags Photos:  The busy market Photos:  Food from pizza and rice Photos:  to a traditional dinner (that's Ali)

On Monday, we stretched our legs by visiting the historic temples and busy markets of Kathmandu whose cacophonous streets were bustling with cars, mopeds, bikes, and the odd cow.

We finally departed on Tuesday via mini-van for a bumpy 8 hour ride to the lakeside town of Pokhara. Off in the distance were the snow capped peaks of the Annapurna Sanctuary, our trekking destination.

Wednesday, June 16, was "trek day". We were up early to begin our 10 day out-and-back walk to A.B.C. Soon we would see no cars, few western-style toilets, have limited access to electricity and no access to buying bottled water, since disposable plastic water bottles are not allowed in the Annapurna Santuary. We each had to purify our own water. I brought a SteriPEN, sort of a luminescent magic wand that uses ultraviolet light to kill microbes; it worked very well. On the trek, we were ably guided by two Nepali head guides and a dozen porters, who carried our sleeping bags and extra gear, allowing us the leisure of hiking each day with just a small day pack.

Each day we walked along stone paths for anywhere from 3 to 7 hours to the next awaiting teahouse (sort of like a B&B), where we consumed masala tea and a hot home-cooked meal of anything from traditional Nepalese curried lentils and rice, to pizza, lasagna or other Western hiker-inspired menu items. This is why it’s known as the “Apple Pie Circuit,” and yes, the pie was delicious!

The accommodations were basic. We were lucky in a way, because we were there during the beginning of monsoon season, and pretty much had the place to ourselves, yet it only rained on 2 days. The downside of the rainy season is that you’ll encounter leeches, little worm-like critters that land on your neck, or crawl up your legs, and into your boots where they latch on, emit an anticoagulant and sip on your blood — think

Along the Trek

< Prev < Play Stop Play > Next > (Click on the photo to start the slideshow) (right-click for the previous image) Starting point — Remember this sign? Photos:  Starting point — Remember this sign? Photos:  The landscape Photos:  Guides and porters — a foggy morning Photos:  A Tea House — our lodging Photos:  Our bunk room Photos:  Yuck! a squished leech Photos:  Trailside blossoms Photos:  Annapurna in the mist Photos:  The next morning at sunrise Photos:  One Happy Trekker

Humphrey Bogart in the scene in the "African Queen". If they later squish in your boots, you’ll end up with a bloody sock and an itchy bite. It has a high gross-out factor! A dab of salt will make them wither and die, but you have to be quick with it to prevent a bite. We were vigilantly surveying each other for them, and wore extra long socks, gaiters, etc. to keep them at bay. Ah, Nepal, where you’ll learn to love the lentils but loath the leeches.

As we progresed from day to day, we left the humid rice paddies of the low-lands, and, with many ups and downs along the way, finally reached alpine A.B.C. We arrived in a thick fog amidst exotic white flowers, rumored to poison you if you smell them. The snow capped peaks of Annapurna were hiding from us and it was not until dawn of the next day that we were rewarded with spectacular views. Fortunately few of us suffered from any signs of altitude sickness, even though we were at 13,500 ft.

While we were at A.B.C., we met race planners who were plotting a course there for a June 3, 2011 race; marathoners stay tuned! (See Trail Running Nepal)

The return trek was made with a spring in our steps, elated with the beauty of the mountains and including a side trip to a natural hot spring. Giddiness set in and we had a boom box dance on the deck after dinner, tourists and porters alike struttin' our stuff, singin’ and talkin’ ‘bout “ABC, 123, baby, you and me!” (And that’s a good sign that your vacation time was well spent, and it’s time to fly home, which we did.)

Now maybe I'll get back to some serious running. Then again ...

From the GAP Adventure Website:

Introduction

Day 15 Kathmandu & Depart
An early morning flight brings us back to Kathmandu for mid morning where you are free to depart from the airport.

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