erhaps it’s heresy to admit in a Flyers newsletter, but sometimes a runner just wants to take a break from running. That’s me, now. I bonked at
Boston, and I am too lazy to even go up to VanCortlandt Park for a friendly 5K. These are signs.
Now, signs can tell you things in interesting ways. In Nepal, for instance, the small villages have large maps painted on the side of a building depicting the trails ahead and telling you how many hours it takes one to walk there. Foot-traffic (or water-buffalo or perhaps mule-traffic) is the only kind of traffic you’ll find on these narrow stone paths. This is where I found myself this June, and one of the signs, just above a stack of Coca Cola crates and a pair of clucking chickens, said “WAY TO A.B.C. — >”, but what did that mean? Silly me, it meant “This way to Annapurna Base Camp” and that’s where I was headed.
How and why was I on this journey? Well, it started last spring when my friend Ali tapped me to “do something” during her June break from medical school. Both of us being hikers (we met on an Appalachian Mountain Club hike), we preferred to have an “active” vacation. We whittled our choices down to hiking in Corsica (alas, too much logistical work for our tastes), or signing-up for a pre-arranged trek in Nepal with GAP Adventures (the Great Adventure People). The dates fit (June 13 - 27), and off we went.
We landed in a steamy, hot Kathmandu on Sunday, June 13th, where we met our fellow group members — two Canadians, two Brits, and four Ozzies — all but one in their rambunctious 20s, combining this trip with longer personal itineraries throughout Asia.
On Monday, we stretched our legs by visiting the historic temples and busy markets of Kathmandu whose cacophonous streets were bustling with cars, mopeds, bikes, and the odd cow.
We finally departed on Tuesday via mini-van for a bumpy 8 hour ride to the lakeside town of Pokhara. Off in the distance were the snow capped peaks of the Annapurna Sanctuary, our trekking destination.
Wednesday, June 16, was "trek day". We were up early to begin our 10 day out-and-back walk to A.B.C. Soon we would see no cars, few western-style toilets, have limited access to electricity and no access to buying bottled water, since disposable plastic water bottles are not allowed in the Annapurna Santuary. We each had to purify our own water. I brought a SteriPEN, sort of a luminescent magic wand that uses ultraviolet light to kill microbes; it worked very well. On the trek, we were ably guided by two Nepali head guides and a dozen porters, who carried our sleeping bags and extra gear, allowing us the leisure of hiking each day with just a small day pack.
Each day we walked along stone paths for anywhere from 3 to 7 hours to the next awaiting teahouse (sort of like a B&B), where we consumed masala tea and a hot home-cooked meal of anything from traditional Nepalese curried lentils and rice, to pizza, lasagna or other Western hiker-inspired menu items. This is why it’s known as the “Apple Pie Circuit,” and yes, the pie was delicious!
The accommodations were basic. We were lucky in a way, because we were there during the beginning of monsoon season, and pretty much had the place to ourselves, yet it only rained on 2 days. The downside of the rainy season is that you’ll encounter leeches, little worm-like critters that land on your neck, or crawl up your legs, and into your boots where they latch on, emit an anticoagulant and sip on your blood — think Humphrey Bogart in the scene in the "African Queen". If they later squish in your boots, you’ll end up with a bloody sock and an itchy bite. It has a high gross-out factor! A dab of salt will make them wither and die, but you have to be quick with it to prevent a bite. We were vigilantly surveying each other for them, and wore extra long socks, gaiters, etc. to keep them at bay. Ah, Nepal, where you’ll learn to love the lentils but loath the leeches.
As we progresed from day to day, we left the humid rice paddies of the low-lands, and, with many ups and downs along the way, finally reached alpine A.B.C. We arrived in a thick fog amidst exotic white flowers, rumored to poison you if you smell them. The snow capped peaks of Annapurna were hiding from us and it was not until dawn of the next day that we were rewarded with spectacular views. Fortunately few of us suffered from any signs of altitude sickness, even though we were at 13,500 ft.
While we were at A.B.C., we met race planners who were plotting a course there for a June 3, 2011 race; marathoners stay tuned! (See Trail Running Nepal)
The return trek was made with a spring in our steps, elated with the beauty of the mountains and including a side trip to a natural hot spring. Giddiness set in and we had a boom box dance on the deck after dinner, tourists and porters alike struttin' our stuff, singin’ and talkin’ ‘bout “ABC, 123, baby, you and me!” (And that’s a good sign that your vacation time was well spent, and it’s time to fly home, which we did.)
Now maybe I'll get back to some serious running. Then again ...
Introduction
An adventurous trek through the mighty Annapurna range. From ancient kingdoms to majestic white mountain vistas, trek for 10 days through every breathtaking landscape possible. Pass awe-inspiring glaciers and stay on the banks of icy Himalayan rivers, cross mountain pastures and vibrant rhododendron forests, dip into natural hot springs and encounter mule trains taking supplies to remote villages. Rest and revive in overnight teahouses, meeting friendly locals along the way.
Grade 5: High altitude trekking suitable for those with a high level of fitness and endurance.
Days 1-2 Kathmandu
Travelers arrive from all corners of the world during the day. There are no arranged activities on Day 1, so please arrive by 18:00 for a group
and trek meeting followed by an optional dinner. Check the GAP notice board in the hotel to find out exactly where this important meeting will
take place. Kathmandu is an awesome mixture of legend and modern development with a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Narrow lanes lead to
small squares and courtyards where ornate carved balconies overlook shrines and temples. Buzzing markets and bazaars are the centre of Nepali
life where stalls and small hole-in-the-wall shops sell everything from bangles to Buddhas to beetroot.
Kathmandu has been a travelers' centre for many years, reflected in the international flavor of the bright lights and 'Coca Cola culture' of the central Thamel district. On Day 2 we're up with the birds to climb to the Swayambhunath Temple. Situated on a hilltop, the instantly recognizable stupa with its Buddha eyes attracts a steady stream of pilgrims and the views out over the valley are superb. In the heart of the Tibetan community, Bodhnath Stupa is the largest in Nepal. The area is a maze of restaurants and workshops. There is free time during the afternoon after our walk through the heart of the old city to Durbar Square, home to the palace of the Kumari Devi, considered to be a living goddess.
Day 3 Pokhara
Leaving the Kathmandu valley behind, we head for the enchanting Nepalese town of Pokhara (approx. 8 hours). Pokhara enjoys a delightful setting
on a lake beneath the snow-capped peaks of the Annapurna range, making it an excellent place to relax and contemplate what lies ahead. Depending
on our arrival time, there may be time to hire a small boat for a quick paddle on the lake for sunset.
There are also plenty of cafes where you can put your feet up and enjoy international cuisine. If you need to hire some extra trekking gear, there are numerous shops available offering everything could possibly need. Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camping on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalayas. This is the land of Magars and Gurunge, hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have earned world-wide fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another important ethnic group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.
Days 4-13 Annapurna Range
At 8091 meters, Annapurna is one of the highest mountains in the world. Its surrounding sister mountains are equally imposing and create
magnificent panoramas from any view point. This trek covers a wide variety of terrain, from lowland pastures and peaceful villages to powerful
glaciers and stunning mountain views. In the rugged mountain scenery, we stay in mountain communities and meet friendly Nepali hill people as
they go about their daily lives. The expedition is not only visually superb but also a chance to learn about local cultures. Along the way we
see thundering waterfalls of melted snow, cross icy rivers and high mountain passes and reward ourselves with a soak in natural hot springs.
While the trekking is challenging, averaging 4-6 hours of walking a day on steep terrain, our Annapurna Sanctuary expedition into the Himalayas allows you to experience "The roof of the world" without major issues associated with high altitude. The highest point on the trek is Annapurna Base Camp at 4130m (13,550 ft.).
Note — This is a trek that requires a very good level of fitness as there are plenty of ascents and descents (in fact there's hardly anything flat!) and the walking is strenuous. Our expedition is led by an experienced local guide who speaks English. We stop at teahouses where our basic mountain accommodation is twin or multishare, toilet and washing facilities are rudimentary and the food is simple but filling, usually vegetarian and cheap.
|
Day 4
Drive to Nayapool and trek to Tirkhedhunga. The drive from Pokhara to Nayapool (1035m) is around 2 hours by bus (around 46 km). From there trekking to Tirkhedhunga (1535m) is 3-4 hours. Distance to Tirkhedhung is around 7 Km.
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12
Day 13 Drive to Pokhara - 45 minutes to Pokhara - Distance Phedi to Hotel is around 19 Km. ... yes, we made it! Now it's time for a well-earned shower and an end-of-trek celebration to enjoy the good things in life - like cold beer and a steak, or vegetarian lasagna! |
Day 14 Pokhara
Today you have a day to rest in Pokahara perhaps some last minute shopping, you can float on a boat or simply wander around this beautiful
town in the foothills of the mountains.
Day 15 Kathmandu & Depart
An early morning flight brings us back to Kathmandu for mid morning where you are free to depart from the airport.